Remedy by splicing in a new wire and bypassing the old wire. If it has voltage then the break is somewhere from there to the back. If it is a separate wire for that side then use wire probe under dash coming out of BCM (probably connector X3) and probe the wire for voltage. Pull the light housing from the body pull the flat for pin connector out of the body hole check to see if the parking light circuit is corroded, if it has power, or if maybe the pin in either half of the connector is pushed back or not making om there I would trace that. Remedy by feeding it the signal from the other side bypassing the breakĤ. This results in the left side brake light not working. If it's combined then the splice failed or other break in the wire. First thing you need to do is correctly identify the light by name.ģ. Using a wiring diagram figure out if that light comes back a single R/L combined wire or it has separate wires. If there is voltage then maybe a connector problem.Ģ. I would isolate the wire that feeds the tailight and using a wire probe and multimeter verify that the wire gets no voltage and is not shorted to ground. Since it's an RV you probably do not have access to this splice area.ġ. I have had a backup light splice failure there (by process of elimination since I do not have access) and there are other documented cases of that happening. He's the real genius here.Above rear door driver's side there is a bundle of wire splices that split left and right wires for those that are not separately controlled. This is such an annoying problem.Īnd kudos to my uncle that pretty much helped me through the entire problem. All I did to make the light come on was tap on the housing with 1 finger a couple times. I first noticed the issue one day when I used the remote start, went outside to drive off, and saw the light was not on. I have an aftermarket remote start installed. I apologize that I probably don't use the proper car "lingo." I'm just a regular person trying to not pay $90 for the "diagnosis fee" and $450 per light that the dealer wants to charge. The right rear running light on my 2017 forester will randomly not work. It is very difficult to enjoy the drive when my car beeps loudly every time I release the brake. Blown Fuse If your lights don’t illuminate on either side and your brake light switch is good, then the next thing to check is the brake light fuse. These are expensive cars, and we pay more money because they are supposed to be well-engineered and fun to drive. I am so beyond angry that Audi won't stand by their product. I attached pictures below so you can see the problem. It has been about a month and I haven't had a problem.
RIGHT REAR LIGHT HOUSING CONNECTOR NOT WORKING ZIP
So I did it a second time, and then used the ends of plastic zip ties to apply pressure to the connector so it wouldn't become loose. I scraped the corrosion off with a tiny screwdriver (as recommended above), and that fixed the problem for about a month. It melts the plastic around it and becomes corroded as a result. The wire has too much current for the connector to handle. It appears that one wire is much larger than the other wires, but the size of the connector is the same. I found that the problem was with corrosion within the connectors that go directly to the tail light housing. They can be a little difficult to pop out because you have to push/pull to the side, not directly out. I used this video to remove the tail lights: It turns out that the light that is farthest outboard in the tail light housing (on both left and right sides) was the problem. If I applied the brakes, the X through a light bulb symbol would go away. My 2008 Audi TT would constantly beep with "Right Rear Light" or "Left Rear Light" with an X through a light bulb symbol popping up on the screen in between the tachometer and the speedometer.
This is clearly a poorly engineered design. It's ridiculous that they won't stand by their product. I called Audi, and they do not acknowledge that this is a widespread problem.
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